In Iraq, religious tourism, pillar of the sector, hit by regional war

In Najaf, Iraq’s holy city, the majestic shrine of Imam Ali is engulfed in an unusual calm: its vast courtyards, once crowded with pilgrims from around the world, including many from Iran and Lebanon, are now deserted.

In neighboring markets, merchants and hoteliers battle boredom. Days drag on in anticipation of visitors to revive local activity.

In normal times, millions of Shiite Muslims from around the world flock annually to the holy cities of Najaf and Kerbala. But the Middle East war, triggered by an American-Israeli offensive against Tehran on February 28, has disrupted this constant flow from Iran, Lebanon, the Gulf, India, and Afghanistan.

“Iranians used to make us thrive, whether we were jewelers, fabric merchants, or taxi drivers. Today, they are no longer here,” laments Abdelrahim Harmouch, owner of a jewelry store in Najaf.

Engulfed in the regional conflict, Iraq has shut its airspace to missiles and warplanes since the war broke out, with strikes targeting American interests and pro-Iranian armed groups in the country.

For 38 years, Mr. Harmouch has run his shop in the old covered market, just a few meters from the golden-domed mausoleum, the burial place of Ali, the Prophet Muhammad’s son-in-law, the fourth caliph of Islam, and the first Shiite imam.

In the holy cities, “we rely on religious tourism,” he reminds, warning that if the crisis persists, the entire population is at risk of bankruptcy: merchants unable to pay rent, taxi drivers without clients, workers struggling to find jobs.

– Closed Hotels –

Abou Ali, a 52-year-old hotelier, had to reluctantly lay off five of his employees. He now retains only one to maintain his 70 empty rooms: “how can we pay salaries if there is no work?”

According to Saeb Abou Ghneim, president of the Najaf Hoteliers Association, 80% of the city’s 250 establishments have closed, leaving over 2,000 employees jobless or on unpaid leave.

This is a second major blow to the sector after the Covid-19 pandemic.

In a country marked by decades of chaos, pilgrimage is almost the only form of tourism, remaining a pillar of the Iraqi economy outside of oil.

Before the war, Moustafa al-Haboubi, 28, constantly managed crowds coming to exchange currencies.

Now, like his colleagues, he passes the time on his phone or chatting with neighbors.

– “Catastrophe” –

The situation is similar in Kerbala, 80 kilometers to the north, where the shrines of the Prophet’s grandsons, Imams Hussein and Abbas, stand.

The wide esplanade connecting the two golden domes and the adjacent streets, once filled with the fervor of the faithful, now see only locals.

“The situation is dangerous (…) it’s a catastrophe,” laments Israa al-Nasrawi, head of the tourism committee.

According to her, the war has devastated the local economy, causing a 95% drop in visitors and forcing hundreds of hotels to close.

The city is dotted with tourism agencies, but their activities have come to a halt.

Akram Radi states that his company is now operating at only 10% capacity, after hosting up to 1,000 visitors per month. After 16 years in the industry, he fears having to close down.